One of the best parts of getting on a plane in the U.S. and departing for a country far, far away is the instant change of scenery.

There’s something about escaping the rigors of everyday life for a new (and hopefully) exciting adventure that’s deeply rewarding for one’s mental health. Done right, you come back home feeling recharged.

Another plus is being able to try foods you might not be familiar with, and allow you to experience and understand the local culture in a very hands-on/mouth open way.

On a recent trip to the east coast of Ireland, that meant two things: the fresh, local seafood — think salmon, mussels, oysters and Dublin Bay prawn — and the dark, iconic dry stout that is available by the pint (and, thankfullly, half pint!) in every pub on the island.

One dish I knew I’d have to try to recreate back home was the dense, velvety Guinness chocolate cake topped with creamy white frosting my husband and I enjoyed at Caffe Nero in Belfast while admiring its grand, copper-domed city hall.

Another was the giant bowl of sriracha mussels we shared for lunch at the elegant, farm-to-table Brunel’s Restaurant in Newcastle, a popular seaside town in southeastern Northern Ireland.

Cake is a great pick-me-up any time of day, so I didn’t feel bad enjoying the stout cake for breakfast before a long (and damp) day of sightseeing. The fact it’s a seasonal treat traditionally served around Christmas and St. Patrick’s Day — get it while you can! — added to its appeal.

As for the mussels? In Ireland, the bivalves are commonly served in a savory, creamy broth made with white wine or Irish cider, garlic, shallot, butter and parsley. At Brunel’s, they came to the table bathed in a slightly spicy and tangy sauce made with sriracha, lime and cilantro. They were both beautiful and so incredibly tasty.

I wasn’t able to get the recipe for either dish from their creators (curiously, Guinness doesn’t have a recipe for stout cake on its website), so I had to search the web and my memory for guidance. Paired, they make a lovely two-course lunch. Sláinte!

Sriracha Mussels with Cilantro and Lime

PG tested

This recipe is modeled after the sriracha mussels I enjoyed at Brunel’s Restaurant in Newcastle, which is known for its modern European cuisine focusing on local, seasonal seafood and produce. It sources its mussels and other shellfish from local waters along the County Down coastline. I used much-larger farm-raised mussels from Maine.

Sriracha is considered only mildly spicy so don’t be afraid to start with a tablespoon or two.

2 pounds mussels, scrubbed

3 tablespoons butter

2 shallots, chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

4 ounces white wine

1 cup heavy cream

1-2 tablespoons sriracha sauce, or to taste

Handful of fresh chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish

Salt and pepper

1 lime, cut into wedges

Toasted ciabatta, for serving

Before cooking, soak mussels in fresh water for about 20 minutes to remove sand or grit. If the “beard” has not been removed, then pull the threads to remove it.

Transfer mussels to another clean bowl of cold water. The mussels should be tightly closed; discard any that are chipped, broken or open.

Use a firm brush to brush off any additional sand, barnacles or other oceanic attachments. Rinse the mussels again under cool tap water and set them aside. Dry with a paper towel before cooking.

In a large pot, melt butter over medium heat. Drop in chopped shallots and minced garlic and cook until softened, about 2-3 minutes.

Add white wine and bring to a simmer.

Add mussels, cover and steam for 5–7 minutes, shaking the pot occasionally, until the shells open. Remove any unopened mussels at this stage and discard.

Remove the mussels from the pot with a slotted spoon and set aside in a bowl. Leave the cooking liquid in the pot.

Add cream and cook for 5 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened slightly. Spoon in sriracha and cook another minute or so. Taste, and add more sriracha if it is not spicy enough.

Add chopped cilantro and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Add a squeeze or two of lime juice and stir gently over low heat.

Return the mussels to the pot and stir gently to coat with the sauce.

Serve in a large bowl with wedges of lime and crusty bread.

Serves 4-6 as an appetizer or 2 as a main dish.

— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette

Guinness Chocolate Cake

PG tested

For cake

This rich and fudgy cake served at restaurants, cafes and coffee shops across Ireland gets a bittersweet embrace from the addition of Guinness stout. It’s meant to resemble an Irish coffee or a pint of Guinness with a thick, creamy head.

The alcohol in the batter won’t completely bake out, but most will evaporate, leaving just enough behind to enhance the flavor of the chocolate.

Be sure to let the cake cool completely before icing. I used a round 9-inch springform pan but think it would work just as well as a sheet cake. Sadly, there wasn’t a recipe for the famed cake on the Guinness website, so I used one from simplyrecipes.com.

Butter, for the pan

1 cup Guinness stout

10 tablespoons unsalted butter

¾ cup unsweetened natural cocoa

1½ cups superfine sugar

½ cup dark brown sugar

¾ cup sour cream

2 large eggs

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

2 cups all-purpose flour

2½ teaspoons baking soda

¼ teaspoon salt

For icing

1¼ cups confectioners' sugar

8 ounces cream cheese at room temperature

½ cup heavy cream

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Grease an 8- or 9-inch springform pan with butter and line the bottom with a round of parchment paper.

Place stout and butter in a large saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat until the butter has melted.

Add cocoa powder and sugars and whisk together. Take off the heat and allow it to come to room temperature.

In another bowl beat together sour cream, eggs and vanilla extract until very, very well combined. Add to the butter-stout mixture and whisk together.

In another bowl whisk together flour, baking soda and salt. Add to stout-butter mixture and whisk together until it just comes together.

Pour into the prepared pan and give the pan a few short drops onto the countertop to shake out the air pockets in the batter. Bake at 350 degrees for 50-60 minutes.

Allow to cool on a wire rack. Run a knife around the edge to separate the cake from the pan and pop the ring off the springform.

While cake is cooling, prepare icing. Using a food processor or by hand, mix confectioners' sugar to break up lumps. Add cream cheese and blend until smooth. Add heavy cream and mix until smooth and spreadable.

Spread a thick layer of icing over the top of the cake only (to resemble a pint of Guinness!) and serve.

Serves 10-12.

— simplyrecipes.com

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